I go to Utah determined to have an "Outdoor Experience," to become a "Wild Westerner"—if only for a day. Since I'm more comfortable reading a book than hiking a trail, more adept at steering cars down crowded roads than driving steer across open plains, this presents a challenge.
Then my husband and I hear about Antelope Island State Park. It is, we're told, "an island in the middle of a sea in the center of a desert surrounded by mountains." This suggests I can do it all—land and water, animals and fish, hike and boat. What's more, there's an old ranch-turned-museum where, when I've had my fill of animals, I can learn people-history as well. When I find that it's all less than an hour's drive from Salt Lake City, it sounds almost too good to be true.
Driving across the seven-mile causeway from Syracuse, the mountains are reflected in the water and the air is thick with birds. It's my first glimpse of the Great Salt Lake, and I'm surprised by its immensity. I can see the city to my left, but to my right the lake stretches past the horizon. At 75-miles long and 35-miles wide, it's the fourth largest "terminal lake" in the world and the largest in the United States. While four rivers bring water into the lake, the water leaves only by evaporation. The minerals, more than two million tons a year, simply stay, making the lake three to eight times saltier than the ocean.
It's too salty for fish and not overly inviting for swimming or skiing. But for boats, particularly kayaks that skim the water without disturbing the birds that nest on the islands, it's terrific.
We go to Great Salt Lake Adventures, the only kayak concession allowed on the lake. The owner, Scott Baxter, assures me I won't drown. "Kayaks are sturdy," he says. "Steady and sturdy." He shows me a three-seat kayak. "We take families out on this one," he says. "Mom in the front, Dad in the back, and as many kids as will fit in the middle."
Then he points to the singles, perfect for go-it-aloners, and the tandems for those who want company or are, like me, unsure of their paddling strength. I end up in the triple, safely sandwiched between my husband and Scott, who comes along as our guide. Like he said, the ride is smooth, the paddling easy, and I'm a bit embarrassed that I was so apprehensive.
We spot a Western sandpiper on shore, but it's the California gulls that swoop and glide above us. Egg Island, less than two miles from dock, has the largest nesting population of California gulls in the world, nearly 150,000 at some times of the year. Today the birds are busy conversing; their squawks override our attempts at discussion and we glide in silence, amazed at the line of gulls that stretches halfway to Fremont Island, seven miles away.
Back on shore, we head up the east side of the island to the Visitor Center for an eighteen-minute film giving us an overview of the possibilities. En route I see my first bison—just as big, shaggy and humpbacked as in my third-grade history books. He's standing quietly in the low grass, the Salt Lake behind him. I'm properly awed.
Twelve bison were brought to the island in 1893; today their descendants number approximately 600. Each fall they're rounded up and checked for disease; when the herd gets too big to allow for good grazing, some are sold.
A few minutes later we stop at the Buffalo Corral for a closer glimpse. The wildlife—antelope, deer, bighorn sheep, bobcats and coyote, in addition to the bison—roam free on the island, but Ron Taylor, the manager of Antelope Island Park, keeps a rotating few in the corral so visitors can inspect them at closer range.
It seems cruel to eat a bison burger for lunch, but I do. It tastes just like hamburger, complete with cheese, lettuce, onion and pickles, all in a sesame-seed bun.
Because the best wildlife viewing is near dusk, we spend the afternoon at Fielding Garr Ranch, which dates back to 1848 when the Mormon Church decided they needed a place to manage church tithing herds. Ranch Foreman Fielding Garr built a small log cabin and gradually added a one-story house and some stone corrals. Today the compound functions as a small museum, showing changes in furnishing and lifestyle over 150 years. It's a hands-on place. While a donated set of period china is placed on a high shelf, out of reach of toddler hands, there are no glass barriers, no velvet ropes. Children are encouraged to climb on the rope bed and sample the straw-tick mattress.
I've actually signed on to ride a horse—one of the few athletic endeavors at which I'm reasonably competent (the horse does all the work)—but the horses have been rented to a large group. "No problem," says Roy, suggesting we take a "duck" tour instead. We board an amphibious vehicle, a World War II relic that's never seen the water but that's perfect for riding the unpaved roads of the islands. We don't go up into the mountains, but the animal spottings are good. "Animals don't react badly to vehicles; they get spooked by hikers and horseback riders," says Taylor, and I find myself feeling sorry for those folks who made horseback reservations ahead of me.
Sunset comes far too soon and, while camping is available at the park, we're not prepared. Next time, though, I will be. In less than eight hours, I've become a confirmed Western-wannabe. I'll be back for more.
For more information: Davis County Tourism, 801-451-3286; www.daviscountyutah.gov
Antelope Island Gatehouse: 801-773-2941
Great Salt Lake Adventures (kayaking; reservations recommended)801-710-7167; www.greatsaltlakekayak.com
Nifty Travel Take-Alongs
It's almost as scary to weigh your suitcase as to weigh yourself. With airlines imposing severe fines on overweight cases, every ounce counts. This makes Wild Blue sleepwear doubly attractive. Originally developed to wick moisture away from the body, it's perfect for use in hot, humid climates (or by menopausal women)! But even more than the cool sleep, I enjoyed the fact that the sleepwear takes almost no space and adds barely an ounce to an over-stuffed suitcase. www.wildbleu.com
I've spent four months in China and managed to pronounce about thirteen words well enough that my Chinese friends could understand them. For English speaking people, Chinese is terribly hard to learn; the phonics are different and, if you mispronounce a word, "mother" could come out sounding like "horse"—definitely not a good idea. The BBK English-Chinese dictionary may not guarantee good family relationships, but it makes learning Chinese somewhat easier and simply getting around China a whole lot easier. www.bbkusa.com
For those who prefer road-tripping but aren't sure about their ability to change a tire, Fix-A-Flat® offers a measure of security. It's not quite as easy as spraying starch—you have to affix a small, enclosed hose—but almost. You press a button, and a miracle substance flows through the hose, adheres to the damaged tire, sealing the problem. It beats waiting hours for a tow-truck. www.fixaflat.com
Now, what about keeping the kids quiet in the car, or entertaining them in the motel room? By far one of the easiest ways is the "Classic Magnetic 7 in One Games to Go" by Front Porch Classics. Tucked into one metal case with handle are all the old favorites: chess, backgammon, cards, cribbage, dominoes, checkers and poker dice. Although it's recommended for people from eight up, my eight year old had difficulty with the small pieces. It wasn't so much that she couldn't handle them as that she became frustrated trying. But for children ten and up (or for nimble-fingered eight year olds) this set is a joy. www.frontporchclassics.com
